Granada!

This past weekend our program from UNC took an overnight trip to Granada, a town about 3 hours away near the Sierra Nevada Mountains. Now a hippie mountain town that I like to refer to as the Asheville of Spain, it once was one of the most powerful cities in Europe (home to los Reyes Catolicos, Fernando e Isabel, and yes I do have pictures of their caskets even though we weren't allowed to take photos inside). Our weekend consisted of a tour of la Capilla Real and la catedral de Granada on Saturday, a tour of most of La Alhambra on Sunday, time to explore the city, a walking tour up the mountain to view the city from above, and a night away in Hotel Los Angeles. I loved seeing some sights I've only seen in textbooks before, don't get me wrong, but the hotel experience is what I truly treasured (sad but true), so that's where I'll begin.

#1 favorite thing about the trip: a buffet breakfast with different flavors of yogurt, other cereals besides corn flakes, orange juice, and scrambled eggs. I had a 3 course breakfast. First, yogurt parfait with banana and peach yogurt and cereal, topped with fresh pineapple. Second, scrambled eggs and roasted tomatoes with oregano. Third, sliced orange, apple, pineapple, mango, honeydew melon, and dark hot chocolate. I'm sorry that I only have a picture of my cleaned plate...

Balcony right outside our room where we sat on Saturday to eat the bocadillos our senoras packed for us. Beautiful weather, and even though there was a mountain chill it felt so good to sit in the sun.

A comfortable bed to sleep in with self-controlled heating. I cranked it up and slept in a tank top and it was glorious. We had a wake-up call for 9am but I naturally woke up at 7:50. I think it was because my body wanted to experience being warm and lying in soft sheets in a comfy bed for a while in a conscious state. It was actually amazing.

We did leave the hotel, believe it or not (I had a few thoughts of just wanting to lie in the bed the whole afternoon while everyone else explored the town). But when you're in Granada and you order a drink, they bring you a plate of some kind of free tapa for free. That being said, we had to experience it for ourselves. The first place we tried gave us two plates of paella for the price of 6 Alhambra cervezas- not too shabby.

The hilly streets of Granada (this mile-long one in particular I ended up walking back and forth on 8 times in less than 8 hours, explanation later)

View of the mountains on the bus ride up

Shops with Moroccan influence

Live music, and just to the left people danced right in the street

An entire street devoted to selling different kinds of tea and dried fruits

A man from Venezuela made jewelry in the downtown area; we stopped to look at his things and as we learned where he was from, that he spoke 5 languages, and where all his jewelry came from, he made me this little ring as a gift. 

I hate to say that I'm already getting a little bored with cathedrals because these massive structures are breathtaking, but I couldn't help getting that "been there done that" feeling when we toured la Capilla Real and the cathedral of los Reyes Catolicos. This one, at least, was primarily white- a nice change to the traditionally dark, more ominous architecture we've seen so far. I loved the gold on white, and being inside gave you a much more welcoming feeling than previous cathedrals we've toured. 

After our buffet-style dinner at the hotel (all you can eat--well if you insist...) there was an optional hike up the mountain to view La Alhambra and the city at night. I felt a little obligated to go since I had seconds and thirds of a lot of things...anyway this view doesn't capture what we saw at all. I kind of like that it was just an image to have in my head, though. It was peaceful and quiet at the top of the hike, and the lights from the city below were so calming. I enjoyed just standing at the edge and looking at the stars. Sort of a weird thought, maybe, but I let my mind wander to all the nights at the beach in North Carolina that I've looked at the stars; while I was up there at the top of the city of Granada, a place I'll probably never return to again, I noted that these are the exact same stars I see at home. Duh, I know, but really, it was cool to feel connected to home for a little when I was somewhere so very far away.

Sunday, after the magnificent breakfast buffet, we checked out of the hotel (goodbye warm, soft sheets- hope to see you again soon) and drove to La Alhambra for a tour that lasted about 4 hours. It was definitely cool, but I had heard it was something like the second most visited place in Europe after Hagia Sofia in Turkey (could have totally made that up), and it didn't quite live up to my expectations. It was a pleasant day, and I didn't have anything better to be doing, so it was fine to take the tour through all the fortresses, gardens, amphitheaters, and Arabic bath houses, but I wasn't awestruck by it all. Except the view at the top of the military fortress. But then again, I always love a good panoramic view of the Sierra Nevada Mountains. 

Bath house, designed to calm the mind and body before worship

a ceiling that did actually blow my mind, totally didn't expect it when I walked in the room and happened to look up

Catapult ammunition left in the side of the fortress... I won't lie I did feel like Xena as I meandered through this part of the walled city; all I could think was "Catapults, I hate catapults!" Parents, you might get that joke.

Seriously though, if only I could have been here during my days of playing Xena outside in the backyard...

Last stop of the tour: this famous fountain bordered by lion sculptures; I remember seeing it in my art history textbook from high school so it was fun to take a picture in front of it!

All in all, this weekend was full of lots of things: good time spent with friends (you realize how nice it is to sit somewhere besides a restaurant with everyone after you're not allowed to bring friends over to your senora's house ever, under any circumstance), lots and lots of walking for the tours, and not to mention the fact that our hotel was at least two miles from the city center so we ended up making the trek back and forth between tours and free time way more than I (or my pinky toes that now have a total of 5 water blisters) would have liked, and the opportunity to catch up on much needed sleep. 

Next weekend- MoRoCcO, Africa!

The most walking I've done in one day...ever.

Friday I didn't have class for the first week since I've been here. I woke up around 11 and MC had already left. I thought about going to the gym, but it was a pretty day, so why not go be out in it? I grabbed my Spanish cell phone (needed to go to the Phone House at the mall anyway to put more minutes on it) and my book, and headed out. After finding out I couldn't add more minutes to my phone until March (weird Spanish rules, still don't understand why?) I tried on a few things in some stores, asked if  I could put them on hold since I didn't bring much money with me- and they looked at me like I was an idiot, guess that means they don't do that- and then saw a sign for a frozen yogurt kiosk with a picture of some fruit and yogurt parfait picture on the side. It looked delicious so I got it, even though it was 12:30 and lunch was at 2. Little did I know it would turn out to look nothing like the picture, but instead: 

tart yogurt, granola, kiwi, mango, banana, chocolate chips, honey, more tart yogurt, more honey

I walked with my yogurt to the Buhaira Gardens, sat to people-watch and finish eating, and read in the sun. From there I walked to the center of the city, explored the Santa Cruz neighborhood, got lost in the winding streets, and lost track of time. I booked it home on a Sevici to make it back in time for lunch. I was still stuffed from the ice cream, but if I ever tell Cristina I'm not hungry she thinks something's wrong with me. If I ever say I don't feel 100%, its because "you exercise, that's why you feel sick, you shouldn't do so much"...if she only knew my schedule at home. So I forced down the lunch, but when she presented the baked manzanas y miel, I just couldn't keep going. I tried to share with MC but was quickly scolded- "NO COMPARTES! TU COMES TODA!" aka I had to eat it all myself. Wasn't gonna happen. I ended up just throwing away half the apple and as soon as I could, I headed back out into the beautiful Sevillan sunshine. I walked and walked and walked all afternoon- back to el centro, to the Plaza de America, through Maria Luisa park, close to Los Remedios, and took a different route back to el centro to meet Mary Carr where we did a little shopping. During my walk I just kept thinking- this city has something around every corner. I couldn't help but smile, thinking "this is where I live. I can walk here any time I want."

I love the intricacies of every aspect of architecture, no matter how small and insignificant it might be

one of the many green fields I stumbled into in the middle of the city

gotta love a bright pink wall

my artsy shot of the day...I took about 6 pictures of this couple and their dog. They were crackin me up

Dinner was pizza and it was by far the best C's ever made (oregano, sausage and mushroom). It was the Chinese New Year's eve, so even though we had eaten, we met up with students on our program from China at a pretty authentic Chinese restaurant where they ordered traditional New Year's dishes and talked about their customs that they would be participating in if they were home. From what little I tasted, I thought the food was awesome and it was so cool to be sitting at a trilingual table. The waitress spoke to the two Chinese students in Chinese, she asked us what we wanted in Spanish, and we were all speaking English to each other. 

By the end of the day, my legs were so sore from all the walking I did. I couldn't wait to get in bed and watch Homeland until I fell asleep. Too bad for my poor legs that we were headed to Granada for the rest of the weekend where the walking continued all. day. long.

Lazy Thursday

Sometimes when I sit down to journal, I don't know what I'll end up talking about. Sometimes I'll end up writing things down I didn't even know were really on my mind, but I guess it turns out they have been. No matter what I end up writing, though, it feels good to just put it on paper (o en la pantalla, rather). So yesterday I got a text from Rachael that just said "Favorite thing you've done today?" That's what I love about Rachael. We haven't talked in a little while, and she could have said something more average like "Miss you, let's Skype soon" or something, but no. She's always on the go, doesn't dwell on things, and she'll be the first person to turn your day around. My day was so-so, or at least I thought it was, but when she asked me that, I realized I had a great answer and it didn't even occur to me that it had been great. I said, "laid on a bench in a tank top and read!" It's the first week of February and the sun was shining, not a cloud in the sky, and I lay next to a 16th century building that is my school, on a path lined with palm trees, in a tank top, and read Eat, Pray, Love. If that's not a great thing to do in a day, I'm not sure what is. 

Other great news for the day? Emily and I spent hours on hours staring at our computer screens, attempting and re-attempting, and FINALLY successfully arranging a trip to Budapest and to Prague in April, during our second week-long break from school. Now I just need to figure out how to skip a week of school to travel through Italy....maybe reading Eat, Pray, Love while I'm abroad wasn't such a good idea, I might just do what she does and drop everything for full-time travel!

I also got a wonderful email from my aunt, it was so good to hear from her. She told me she was saving her old cookbooks for me for when I got home! This obviously made my stomach growl, thinking of the decadent meals she prepares on a whim. And when I started thinking of that, I thought about experimental cooking with Dad at home...so then I thought of the pictures I took over Christmas with my new camera!

All from a Spanish-inspired dinner night... roasted vegetables, white asparagus, Crema Catalana. Everything but the famous mac-n-cheese, that is. Let me just say, this must be the gourmet version of the meals I'm used to here in Sevilla. Never have Cristina's roasted red peppers looked like this. As much as I miss the comforts of home, it's all going to be there for me when I get back. This time away is just adding to my life experiences, its not taking anything away. Sometimes I just need to keep that in mind when I remember how delicious dad's macaroni is, or how much I love taking baths in Nan's luxurious jacuzzi bath tub. This is a time to be doing something different, and if I don't take the time to notice what's good-- like that I could spend my Thursday afternoon reading in the sun-- versus pining over what's not at my finger tips right now, I know I'll miss out on something awesome. And now I'm going to get off the computer, and I'm not going to get back on all weekend. It's time to go experience something new.

FDOC

...yesterday was First Day Of Classes at the University of Sevilla. This is what I scribbled madly into a "note" on my iPhone before class started:

Right now I'm sitting on a bench, waiting for it to be 5:30 and for my first class to start. It's 5:11. I got here at 5. I'd much rather be early than late, but when I'm so early that there's no one around, I feel like I should be doing something else with my time. There's no internet and I didn't bring a book to read, so I'm just sitting here typing this. The way I feel reminds me of the fire drill story when I was in preschool. Apparently I asked my teachers at the ripe old age of 4: where are we going? How long will we be gone? What time are we coming back? I like to be in the know. When i step forward into territory that I can't be sure I'll land steadily on, I become so apprehensive. Today I had to take a bus for the first time to the high school I'm going to be volunteering at every Monday. There will be many more days like this one, but because this was the first one, and I didn't know what to expect, I feared it. I'm fearing this class now- a rapid fire teacher speaking native Andalucian tongue so fast I'll never keep up, an assignment that might have already been due the first day that I had no idea about, all Spanish students that have been studying dialectics for upwards of 3 years and know what the heck it's about, or the professor being mean or cold and not receptive to an American student. Who knows? These are all what-ifs, and I know that in 13 minutes (maybe, maybe not) the class will be under way and I'll forget my questions as I try to wrap my mind around the reality. Well here's what reality right now- I have to stop letting my heart beat faster and grow uneasy whenever I'm doing something I've never done before. It's inevitable, I'm going to do it. Why fear the moments leading up? The worst that can happen? Won't be the end of the world for sure. The best? I make a friend that will help me get through the semester. The professor is welcoming. The class is doable. Hey Maggie- try to not fear what might be bad, and if it is- you know how to deal, you've been there and done that before- and if its good, you'll have saved yourself from wasting so much negative energy and be more open to receiving what's out there for you.

...this is what I wrote BEFORE the class. The turnout? It actually was way too hard for me. The professor asked how many exchange students there were and of that minority of the class, what were our majors. Mine? Periodismo. Every single other person's? Hispanic Linguistics. This is a Hispanic Linguistics and Dialectics 3rd level course, mind you. I was beyond intimidated. She did talk too fast. I didn't understand what was to be expected of me. I hadn't yet looked at the course page that everyone else seemed to have already been familiar with. SO, after some major stressing and getting pissed at myself for screwing up my schedule to begin with I've come to a few conclusions.

1. I'm switching into a UNC class with all American students (attendance counts for more but the work will be more doable I think).
2. I'm done with being mad that my schedule is all over the place and has me running around the city all day. Just gonna put on my tennis shoes and get to walking.
3. I'm happy I went to the professor's office hours right away to express my concerns, so I can be proud of that and not feel like I didn't give it a shot.
4. I'm still gonna try to go on every trip I can manage and not stress about missing the UNC class. You're only abroad once.
5. I'm still taking 2 classes at the University of Sevilla so I will have opportunities to chat with the locals, and I still get to say this is my school:

                  One of the courtyard patios and the view from the street.

                           The front entrance and the gate right outside the front entrance.

Another view from a hallway, every one opens to some kind of patio outside; and one of the indoor hallways.

My phone can't really do it justice, but this building dates back to 1505 when it was a tobacco factory. If I were a Harry Potter fan, I'd tell my friends I went to Hogwarts. While I'm complaining about schedules, I do need to keep in mind its already February and everyone else has had rigorous schedules for a month. And I'm in Spain, where it was 70 degrees today and I read outside in a tanktop and ate fro-yo.

Birthday festivities and Ronda!

Yesterday was Mary Carr's birthday! Friday night we started celebrating when Cristina made her a cake and then we went out for tapas downtown with friends.

Cristina's tarta... we can't exactly call it cake (a flan with thin cookie slices and chocolate sauce more or less)...but it was pretty delicious for something non chocolate-on-chocolate fudge-on-chocolate (my first preference for birthday cakes)

At Tablerna el Papelon I ordered a GREEK SALAD knowing the risk that it could turn out to be a big let down or everything I could dream of and more, and it was the latter; and a glass of vino rioja...all for 5euro. Oh balsamic and cucumbers how I've been missing you.

It turned Mary Carr's birthday at midnight, so we all sang to her at our second tapas bar where friends ordered paella, chocolate caliente, chocolate con churros, and bull's tail. We all wanted to take it easy because bright and early Saturday morning we were headed to Ronda! It's a city about 1 1/2 hours away by bus. 

I had heard the sights here were incomparable, and I'm always up for a hike, and it was a birthday occasion, and we wanted to do something different from the usual weekends of sleeping in until 2pm... so it seemed like it was the perfect trip to take. I can only really describe this little quiet, sleepy town as magical.

I fell asleep on the bus on the way there, but when I woke up halfway through the ride, this was the view outside the bus window.

When we arrived everyone was pretty much immediately hungry, so we had an early lunch in an awesome little restaurant. We were the only one's there, so the man (left, back of the picture) that owns the bar loved chatting with all of us. His son (took the picture) works in the restaurant but is also a professional bull fighter and is rather famous. His dad was more than happy to show us photos of his victories; he was so proud. It was so cool to be around them; they genuinely wanted to strike up conversation- and I definitely couldn't  complain about the food. He also made my hot chocolate extra chocolate-y. The group in the pictures is the 6 of us from UNC (MC, me, Chloe, Emily, Eric, Tim...we all got so lucky as far as being put in houses within a few minutes' walk from each other. It makes getting together so much easier), and we were also joined by 3 other girls from another program that we've met so far in Sevilla. After lunch, it was time to explore.....

 There's two parts to the town-- old and new (new being built after the Spanish Civil War). They're separated by a massive dam/bridge. The town on both sides is built into the cliff.

It was crazy to start from up top and as we hiked our way down get to see the town from further and further away.

The six of us. Love you guys! And happy birthday MC!

In other news, I've spent all of Sunday in bed. Watched Vampire Diaries, Revenge, Modern Family, Shutter Island, Bounty Hunter, and an episode of Full House. Took 2 naps. Laid in child's pose in bed for a little bit to stretch out my back which has been so sore lately...but didn't bother to roll out my yoga mat for it...too far across the room. I can't wait to start going on weekend-long trips to avoid this Sunday trap, as I like to call it. For now, I'm settling with the fact that there's nothing to do on Sundays (no stores open, gym closes at 2, senora sleeps all day) and the city of Sevilla is basically asking you nap all day long. I got out of bed to eat lunch and then to eat dinner (a very bony fish, and then tortilla de patatas with chorizo). First day of class starts Monday! But not until 5:30 pm........what to do all day until then??